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Posted 20 hours ago

Mazona 5" Chimney Closure/Register Plate Kit 950mm x 400mm

£9.9£99Clearance
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The attic scenario does not compare because you cannot have a sealed attic- there are always sources of airflow, and sources of humid air in an attic. If a 904 316 chimney liner is being fitted then a register plate is not required. A plate is still required (to prevent heat being wasted by travelling up into the chimney and also to prevent "old soot smells" into the room as a chimney warms from the heat of the liner) but this plate is called a closure plate which we will come to shortly. It is rare nowadays that chimney liners are not fitted (although stove flue pipes might be connected directly to pot lined chimneys) and register plates are rarely fitted nowadays.

Many here will tell you manufactures listings / specs trumps code. To an extent that is correct.. What manufactures specs can not do, is make me sign off a direct connect, even though the outdated manual tells me it is ok, in the case of the cross-sectional code. Yes I can hide behind the manufactures specs and approve the direct connect in an exterior fireplace. Fill deep holes in wall with spare mortar or use "bonding" (used before plastering to fill crevices and holes). What I have found is the MSDS for Inswool basically telling me how bad this stuff is to breath. Fibers cause cancer. And other good stuff like that. You should have something that looks like the picture above (without my colleague in the picture unless he has been moonlighting). The left, right and rear of the recess are lined with cement board and a dangling chimney liner is present. As I have suggested in the smooth-lining section you can, if you wish, fit the closure plate before the liner goes in, and even before the wall-lining (just adapt the instructions as required). Cut on the larger line (including 1” flange), notch all four corners and fold down the 1” flange at about a 60 degree angle.

Though of course, how much maintenance your setup requires depends on the type of fireplace you have. I'll try to make it as short as I can. What I basically have is a question about Inswool being used to close up the hole in the flue after the rear of the damper (damper question below) was smashed out (by the installer), the stove was put in and Inswool and only Inswool was used to close the hole in chimney flue. Then there is the issue of keeping as much heat in the "home space" as possible.... if the plate is properly installed, everything below it becomes part of the home space and the panels are purely decorative. Elk, did you write that whole diatribe? Wow......you must have it stored somewhere and break it out..... inch Deluxe Terra-Cotta Top Plates, 7 inch Deluxe Terra-Cotta Top Plates, 7 inch Deluxe Terra-Cotta (1)

Connect all the marks so that your layout will look very much line the top inside of your fireplace with a 1” extra lip around it.Martin Lewis: Do you have a Power of Attorney? It’s crucial protection – not just for the elderly – and more important than a will The added benefit of doing all this will be that if you ever decided to use that fireplace for a wood burner, providing you choose a stove fit for the purpose of your fireplace and room, the chimney is set up ready for a flexible flue liner installation, which should inevitably save you some costs toward the installation. 2019-05-06T20:30:02+01:00 Before the closure plate design commences I usually connect my “adaptor” to the bottom of the chimney liner (adaptors can have differing lengths of nose and have two methods of attaching to the liner – bolts or self tappers). If using self tappers they will pass through the liner and both walls of the adaptor (choose a length so they only protrude a few mm into the inside surface of the adaptor). Better still buy our adaptor with captive wing nuts.

This is not always obvious from the ground, but could be a problem. Be sure to get a quote before any work is carried out. If you are considering removing your old fireplace and replacing it with a modern electric fireplace, here’s a handy guide on the average costs of removing the old fireplace. Type Of Fireplace To Be Removed Example: 36” measurement, we would need a piece of metal at least 38” long and we would mark the center at 18” on the front line 1” in from the edge). When you cut out your hole you can afford to have it a reasonable size. As long as it is smaller than the square and there is material left for the four screw holes to work then all is good. A closure plate does not need an access hatch for sweeping as the chimney can be swept either via the stove or through a removable sweeping plate on the stove pipe.In the image above the register plate is for a large fireplace recess. There is a hole in the middle for the flue pipe and two hatches either side for accessing above the plate to retrieve soot. In smaller fireplaces there may be little room for these hatches and this causes difficulty. It is usually the wisest choice to fit a chimney liner and avoid the need for a closure plate. Instead you can fit a more simple "closure plate" (see lower down in this article). A closure plate does not have to be metal and does not have to have access hatches. We then attached a piece of plywood to the underside of the 2 x1 and drilled 4 holes in the middle of the plywood. We screwed a vent over the holes to allow the chimney to breathe then placed the electric log burner in the hole. Also I asked why he smashed out the complete housing and not just cut out an area big enough for the stove pipe to go up, then I would have at least had the rest of the damper housing and damper flap to close off a huge section of the hole.

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