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Agfa Photo 6A4360 APX Pan 400 135/36 Film

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The next two films we’ll be discussing are exciting to me since they are both new films. With the last few decades seeing film after film company shutters its windows, it really is encouraging to see two new films come out in the same year. While we are talking about similar films to Kentmere 400 I should mention AGFA APX 400 vs Kentmere 400. My local lab as stopped selling the current APX 400 film as stated that is it just re-badged Kentmere 400. I have no evidence of this but it is a reputable source so I have no reason to doubt. What this means is if you also shoot with AGFA APX 400 film you probably don’t need to buy Kentmere 400 film too.

The next two films are what I would consider mid-range films preferred by documentary style photographers, where high quality and predictable results are important, but going through rolls and rolls of it necessitates keeping the price point low. FP4+ is another story, probably my favourite 35mm film, it has never let me down, you can’t really push it but you usually don’t need to when choosing an iso 125 film. Seeing photographs of FP4+ and APX400 side by side is like night and day. Everything is sharper, with better tonality and highlights like clouds for example, look great. On APX400 you don’t have to worry about clouds. Because they don’t exist. Thessaloniki, the “co-capital” of Greece. Nikon FM, Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D, Ilford FP4+, Rodinal 1+50 Light metering After the dissolution of IG Farben, Agfa emerged as its own independent company again before becoming a subsidiary of Bayer in 1952. In 1964, Agfa AG merged with Belgian photographic company Gevaert Photo-Producten N.V. to form Agfa-Gevaert N.V. which would remain under Bayer’s control until 1999. The company continued manufacturing film cameras until the early 1980s and then produced a series of unsuccessful entry-level digital cameras from the mid 1990s until the early 2000s. Choosing between the Nikon D850 + 28mm f/1.4E or the Leica M10 + 28mm f/1.4 Summilux... or any other system

Medium Format vs 35mm

In most cases you will get better results if you develop the film yourself and can choose the right developer etc., but I assume that you can also get good results in an external lab. Los Angeles with Anna - Part I - Pairing the Leica M10 with the Leica 28mm f/1.4 Summilux + APO 50mm f/2 Summicron The more I shoot and develop HP5 in 120 the more I think this THE film to use in a medium format camera. It is so versatile, you can use it under any light conditions including night photography because you can easily push is to 1600 or 3200, grain is not an issue at this size of negative, it offers great tonality and it is reasonably priced. View from Nymphaio village, we went to see a bear sanctuary located there. Bronica SQ-B, Zenzanon 80mm PS f/2.8, HP5, Rodinal 1+50 View from old commercial port of Thessaloniki, it is now gentrified with cafes, restaurants, and museums. Bronica SQ-B, Zenzanon 80mm PS f/2.8, HP5, Rodinal 1+50 The Agfa 400 had the most grain, and slightly less sharpness than TMax/HP5, but it was not as grainy as Tri-X developed in D-76, and certainly acceptable. You can now buy 35mm Kentmere film in the UK and Europe too. As mentioned, originally it was only available in the US.

But if you’re a beginner to film processing, I’d absolutely recommend starting with any of the films I’ve mentioned previously and not this one, as you’ll have an easier time of it. With that disclaimer out of the way, let’s talk about this film. Leica 75mm f/1.25 Noctilux-M ASPH + Leica APO 75mm f/2 Summicron-SL ASPH + A Little Extra More - Part II Now I know you’re probably anxious to dive into the actual photos. But first I’d love to share with you a tool I built to help myself to determine which film I want to commit to, long term, for myself. If this can also help you, then I’m happy to share it. Next up is Fomapan, which, is also Arista EDU Ultra, which, is also HOLGA. It’s all the same emulsion. Fomapan 400 has been produced for by Foma, Czech company, for almost a hundred years. It is Europe’s popular budget-friendly brand. I’ve found that prices vary between its various brands, so I’ll usually watch and compare these prices and get the version which happens to be the cheapest at any given time.Shortly after the end of World War II, IG Farben was forcibly dismantled by the Allies for their cooperation with Nazi leadership in supplying the pesticide Zyklon B for use in concentration camp gas chambers. Twenty-four IG Farben directors were indicted during the Nuremberg Trials, including Agfa’s director Fritz Gajewski. While over half of them were found guilty and served prison terms, Gajewski was found innocent and acquitted of all charges. Whereas Lupus may have inherited the Agfa APX name, Rollei inherited the technology. Most agree that Rollei RPX is the successor of the old Agfa APX. Rollei RPX is known for its high dynamic range and holding details in the shadow. It is fine grained and shows some high contrast. Allegedly, this film was designed to be pushed. While it was introduced as a low-cost film eight years ago or so, it currently sells at more on the expensive end at 18 cents per frame, in the US. Rollei RPX is a bit more challenging to scan than some, as it does have some significant curling after drying. Kentmere offers a more classic look from being less perfect (vs. TMax), having more visible grain and lower contrast. Kodak TMax 400 is very modern and smooth looking from the fine T-grain structure. T-Max 400 is the best 400 speed film, especially in 35mm film format in terms of resolving power and look for my taste. That said TMax is so perfect it can look almost digital especially in 120 film format. I do quite like the classic look of film photography so Kentmere 400 will suit my needs in many instances and especially for low light. More Kentmere sample photos All the films exhibited SOME compression of highlight tones, but this is typical of my scanner. The TMax and Delta 400 highlights were slightly more compressed, but not all that different. When it comes to price, if you live in US and it’s still 2017 you could probably just trust my numbers. If you don’t, what you’ll want to do is figure out the price per frame, as some of these films come in 24 frames in a roll and others 36. Here are the prices per frame in the US as of the time of me filming this video:

Los Angeles with Anna - Part II - Day and Night with the Leica 21mm f/3.4 Super Elmar + APO 50mm f/2 Summicron From how I developed this film I would say the film performed better under exposed vs. over exposed. You can decide for yourself from the images above. I don’t think I lost too much highlight detail but the shadow performance was particularly impressive. Film shot at box speed then pushed in developing?So what were your results? Does this test change anything for you? Has it sparked your interest in a new film? I’d love to hear about it in the comments? So I’ve given a lot of disclaimers so far, and I want to add yet one more, but this is probably the most important disclaimer. Except in the case of one film (which we’ll get to later), I used the same developer: Kodak HC 110. But assuming you’re ok with my own set of criteria, what you’re going to want to do first is to go through each of these criteria and rate how important each one is to you personally on a scale of 1-5, with 1 being not important at all and 5 being extremely important.

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