Posted 20 hours ago

MFT/3 Replacement Table top Cut in 18mm Moisture Resistant MDF Multi Function Clamping Table

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For me I would like to use the trim router and the Parf system, so no drill but instead a hole that would take a 30mm bush and now another level of hole drilling would be possible, no issues with tilting the drill as the router is all plunge. Dogs of various sizes, and these come with collars too, and those are showcased in the videos mentioned earlier by Peter and Bisch Basch Bosch - they're going to be really handy, and also some guide rail dogs.

sauter perforated worktop: Made of MDF material for indoor and damp areas in the 1,200 x 800mm format. Heavy Duty: The wooden workbench top is made from MDF and is perforated, so comes with pre-drilled holes. It can be a bit tricky to drill large holes in to MDF because as the drill bit bites in to the layers of laminated wood, those layers can kind of tear, and that means the bit gets clogged up and stops biting in to the wood to drill properly. Then I could work my way down the top, row by row, using my awl to locate the jig in the first hole.The beauty about building your own isn’t just the cost-saving or even the satisfaction of having built your own workbench. Using the LR32, align the LR32's holey rail so that the center of the first hole will be 71 mm from the short edge and 71 mm from the long edge. Using the OF1400 router with the 20 mm cutter, with the MDF over a sheet of insulating foam, plunge the corner hole, and then move the LR32 guide three stops (96 mm), and plunge the next hole. Okay, the rail is now set up across the long side of the table – but unfortunately my ceiling height is too short, so I can’t lift it out of the way anymore.

If you want to learn more or withdraw your consent to all or some of the cookies, please refer to the cookie policy. Note that the MDF can be cut to the final dimensions of 1102 mm by 718 mm if you are making an MFT/3 replacement top. I want to use an MFT/3 replacement top as a ‘template’ to make a larger top, I have seen other people successfully clamp it to the workpiece and then drill out the bulk of the holes with a drill bit. Here I have a 1m fence, with some flippy flag stops for repeatably accurate cuts, and if my top is truly accurate, which it should be, I should be able to position that anywhere.The best techique that I've found for drilling large holes in to MDF is to switch the drill in to it's low gear so that it drills slower, and then apply plenty of downward pressure to the back of the drill to help the bit really bite in to the MDF, and then drill the holes nice and slow. Place the LR32 guide on the rail with the guide at one of the rail holes and slide the rail so that the tip of the 20 mm bit is at the first mark, then clamp the two ends of the rail to the MDF. If all you want is a hole pattern for clamping and not for accurate layout, you can use any number of inexpensive jigs or the old MFT top itself.

Feskit – Engineered by necessity, is located in the South West of England and prides itself on small niche tools and fittings for the Kitchen Industry and alike. I guess that can also be said for various jigs and aids, but those were created for a purpose that the Festool MFT's were not. In this video I make a MFT top for my new workbench / assembly table for use with bench dogs, fences and accessories without the use of a CNC or any expensive guide jig systems. Quote from: Francis_Beland on January 10, 2020, 09:06 PM I'm currently in the process of doing this and I'm really disappointed by the 20mm Festool router bit. Had I thought about this, I would be able to flip the top over when it became too abused (and I do abuse it).The second group wants to reproduce a MFT surface that becomes a critical alignment surface using dogs and dog holes to align Festool rails to cut critical angles and to attain picture perfect fits. I'm in the same boat; my PGS Mk II just arrived and I'll be heading out in a week or so when the weather improves a bit to get the materials for my DIY mft.

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